After living in Montmartre for several months, I would like to think that I know the area well. But even the small village around metro Abbesses is constantly evolving with new cafés, restaurants, and shops opening all the time. If you find yourself in the 18th arrondissement visiting Sacré-Cœur or the Moulin Rouge, make sure to stop by some of my favorite places that have opened recently:
SyLon de Montmartre is a newly opened café located on rue Piémontési alongside the famous potelets by Le CyKlop, which are painted with the faces of renowned artists who lived or worked in Montmartre. With a wooden facade that you can’t miss, and leather couches inside, SyLon de Montmartre is a cosy café perfect for enjoying a flat white or a slice of delicious carrot cake. Owner Carine is passionate about coffee and offers speciality brewing methods such as AeroPress, Chemex, and V60.
“Paris is the city in which one loves to live. Sometimes I think this is because it is the only city in the world where you can step out of a railway station – the Gare D’Orsay – and see, simultaneously, the chief enchantments: the Seine with its bridges and bookstalls, the Louvre, Notre Dame, the Tuileries Gardens, the Place de la Concorde, the beginning of the Champs Elysees – nearly everything except the Luxembourg Gardens and the Palais Royal. But what other city offers as much as you leave a train?” ― Margaret Anderson
“That Paris exists and anyone could choose to live anywhere else in the world will always be a mystery to me.” – Marion Cotillard, Midnight in Paris
“There is but one Paris and however hard living may be here, and if it becomes worse and harder even – the French air clears up the brain and does good – a world of good.” – Vincent Van Gogh.
“I don’t get here often enough, that’s the problem. Can you picture how drop dead gorgeous this city is in the rain? Imagine this town in the ’20s. Paris in the ’20s, in the rain. The artists and writers!” – Owen Wilson, Midnight in Paris.
J’aime l’automne, cette triste saison va bien aux souvenirs. Quand les arbres n’ont plus de feuilles, quand le ciel conserve encore au crépuscule la teinte rousse qui dore l’herbe fanée, il est doux de regarder s’éteindre tout ce qui naguère brûlait encore en vous.
– Novembre, Gustave Flaubert
Je jouis infiniment Je la beauté douce et tranquille de cette fin d’été, de ce début d’automne. Il y a, en cette saison, un parfum de mélancolie émouvante, suave, dont je me sens profondément imprégné. J’ai l‘impression qu’en cette saison quasiment crépusculaire, les âmes sont meilleures et les cœurs plus sensibles… Et pourtant, on continue à se battre.
– Paroles de Poilus: Lettres et carnets du front, lettre 2, 5 octobre 1917, Henry Lange
This surprising union of used materials, Many Spoken Words, (2009) by Luxembourgish artist Su-Mei Tse (1973), sets off a multitude of associations. Forming from a basin, dark black ink gushes forth from a garden fountain of baroque inspiration and, as the artist remarks, “expresses the idea of the whole process of language: the way an initial thought or idea develops first into spoken, and then into written words” (Su-Mei Tse). Through this work, as much visual as it is sonorous, the artist pays homage to literature, evoking the infinite potential of words and the eternal renewing of creation. The multiple and incessant drops of Many Spoken Words make the fluidity of the spirit, words, and creativity perceptible, and leave indelible traces. – MUDAM.
A photo diary of the three nights I spent in Luxembourg xx
As an arts lover in Paris, you’re spoilt for choice. But once you’ve ticked off all the major art museums and galleries – such as the Louvre and Musée D’Orsay – you might want to explore some of the lesser-known options in the city with the added bonus of avoiding long queues, crowds, and sometimes even entry fees. Here’s our guide to arts off the beaten track:
Palais de Tokyo
Constructed in 1937 for the Exposition Internationale des Arts et Techniques, Palais de Tokyo was designed to house the modern art collections of both the French state and the city of Paris. During World War II, its basement was used to store pillaged Jewish goods and property. Superseded in its original purpose by the opening of Centre Pompidou, the building was eventually gutted and abandoned. The Palais de Tokyo as we now know it was inaugurated in 2002.
The Big Mamma Group was started by Tigrane and Victor, two Frenchmen with a love for Italian food. They opened their first restaurant – Mamma Gorda – in the south of France but quickly aspired to break into the Parisian dining scene. While Italian restaurants are a-plenty in Paris, the Big Mamma Group brought something different to the table: ‘a 100% Italian trattoria, with fresh products brought in from Italy, and a 100% Italian staff’. They even rented 20 apartments to house their staff!
The Big Mamma Group opened their first restaurant – East Mamma – in the 11th arrondissement of Paris and quickly found people lining up at the door, a now common sight at all of their restaurants. They soon opened their second restaurant, Ober Mamma, this time including a fun cocktail list featuring Italian liquors and a huge wood-fire pizza oven for their Neapolitan pizzas. In order to make fresh, authentic Italian dough, they opened Mamma Primi, specializing in primi piatti. Then, they decided to create a real Italian cafféin the form of Biglove, serving up 100% gluten free pizzas, brunch with an Italian twist, and coffee all day.
For its 44th edition from 19 to 22 October 2017 in Paris, FIAC will host a carefully balanced selection of leading international galleries in the iconic Grand Palais. FIAC consolidates the presence of major galleries working in the field of modern and contemporary art and confirms its support of the emerging generation, notably via the Lafayette Sector.
This year FIAC is re-introducing a design sector, with the participation of 5 galleries internationally renowned for their expertise in the field of 20th and 21st design. On Site presents sculptures and installations in locations in and around the prestigious Petit Palais.
FIAC reaffirms its strong cultural mission through the Hors Les Murs programme. A program of artworks – unrivalled in scope in the landscape of international art fairs – will be presented in emblematic Parisian sites: the Jardin des Tuileries, the Musée National Eugène Delacroix, and the Place Vendôme. – FIAC.
A photo diary of Foire Internationale d’Art Contemporain held at Grand Palais, Paris xx